How to Spend a Relaxing Weekend in Niš, Serbia

Example H2

In southern Serbia lies Niš, a city that might not be on your typical travel itinerary in the Balkans. After spending time exploring this ancient crossroads, I discovered a place where Roman history meets Balkan culture, where traditional kafanas serve hearty Serbian dishes, and where centuries of history blend with modern city life. The relaxed pace and rich history make it an ideal spot for an authentic stop on your tour in the Balkans. Here’s how you can spend a slow and relaxing weekend in Serbia's third-largest city.

A Short History of Niš

The story of Niš stretches back over 2000 years, first appearing in history as the Roman city of Naissus. Its most famous son, Constantine the Great, was born here in 272 CE, and later became the Roman emperor who legalized Christianity throughout the empire. The city's location at the crossroads of Balkan routes made it valuable for various empires - Byzantine, Serbian, and Ottoman - each leaving their mark on the culture and architecture.

During Ottoman rule in 1809, after a battle near the village of Čegar, the Ottoman commander ordered a tower to be built using the skulls of Serbian rebels who had died fighting for liberation. This Skull Tower was then constructed with 952 skulls of the rebels embedded in its walls as a warning. Today, 58 skulls remain in the tower, which is now preserved within a chapel that was built in 1892. This monument, along with others, highlights the city's long history of resistance and resilience.

Another dark part of the city’s past, during World War II, a Nazi concentration camp known as Red Cross (Crveni Krst) was constructed in 1941 and was in operation until 1944. It's one of the few camps that had a successful mass escape when 100 prisoners broke out in February 1942, but unfortunately most of them did not survive. The camp primarily held Serbian patriots, Jews, and Roma prisoners, and still stands today as a museum with its original cells, watchtowers, and barbed wire fencing.

Today, Niš is a city where Roman ruins and Ottoman architecture mix with modern Serbian life. While tourists often head to Belgrade and Novi Sad, Niš offers a quieter Serbian experience with its traditional kafanas, ancient fortress, and layers of history.

Cultural Sites and Things to Do

Tinkers Alley (Kazandžijsko Sokače)

This cobblestone street, Tinkers Alley, in the center of Niš shows a glimpse into the city's past. Once home to metalworkers crafting copper goods, today it's a narrow street lined with restaurants and bars. The old stone path and traditional buildings make it a good spot to wander through or stop for a meal at one of the kafanas (traditional tavern).

Niš Fortress and park

Located close to the city center is the 18th-century Turkish fortress built over Roman, Byzantine, and medieval foundations. The fortress walls enclose a park where locals gather for events and festivals. Wandering around the fortress and the park within was my favorite part in all of Niš, and this is a really nice little retreat into nature while surrounded by old walls and Roman ruins. Just outside of it and on the way to get to the fortress is over a stone bridge. High up in the old walls or along the river is also great for seeing the sunset or finding a quiet spot.

National Museum

The National Museum showcases artifacts across the region's history within a historic building in the city center. The collection includes Roman artifacts from Mediana, Constantine's luxury villa, and other items like coins, jewelry, and weapons from different periods. I visited on a weekday afternoon and had the whole place to myself for the hour.

Mediana Archaeological Park

A bit outside of the city, you’ll find Mediana, the remains of Constantine's luxury villa complex from the 4th century. The site includes thermal baths, mosaics, and a granary and excavated artifacts on display. This is the one place a little out of the way, so you might need a taxi or take a bus if you don’t want to walk for an hour one way.

Skull Tower (Ćele Kula)

The Skull Tower is now a memorial from Serbia's fight against Ottoman rule, which was built in 1809 using 952 skulls of Serbian rebels. Today 58 skulls remain. So many have disappeared because either relatives wanted to bury them (although I’m not sure how they would be able to identify that), souvenir hunters wanted to collect them, or they just fell out. To protect the structure, it’s now housed within a small chapel. This was a strange sight to see, and I stuck around inside for a while imagining what kind of lives those who fought experienced. I also visited here on a weekday afternoon and had the place to myself.

Red Cross Concentration Camp (Crveni Krst)

The Red Cross World War II camp is now a memorial museum. Everything is mostly the same as back during the war with original structures. It’s a bit harrowing to go inside the main building and then find the prison cells at the top floor. It felt scary to be there and imagine what happened, but it’s also important to visit. There were a few others when I went on a weekday afternoon, but it was certainly not busy.

Bubanj Memorial Park

On a hill overlooking the city, this memorial park commemorates the over 10,000 victims who were executed here during World War II. Three large concrete fists rise from the ground - representing men, women, and children - as a memorial of resistance. This park is also a bit out of the way, so if you’re not a fan of a long walk, you can take a taxi.

Foods to Try

Among the Balkans, you’ll find many overlaps in cuisine across the borders, so what you’ll find in Serbia, you will likely find in its neighbors, and vice versa. For a traditional meal at a restaurant, look out for ones that have “kafana” in the name.

Sarma/Sarmica

These rolls made of cabbage or vine leaves stuffed with minced meat and rice are common in Serbian cuisine. In Niš, they're often served as part of the meze (appetizer) spread. Sarma is popular around the Balkans, and a simple and hearty favorite. I highly recommend Kafana Meze for any traditional dish, and I particularly enjoyed the lamb sarma that was also cooked in a clay pot with eggs and cheese served with yogurt sauce.

Burek

This flaky pastry filled with meat, cheese, or spinach is a breakfast favorite. You'll find several bakeries around the city center serving fresh burek throughout the morning. Go to Bakery Anton Plus for fresh, warm burek or other tasty pastries. These are super filling, so just one will last you a long time.

Gibanica

A traditional layered pastry made with cheese, eggs, and thin filo dough. While similar to burek, gibanica has its own distinct taste and texture. You can also find it in any bakery, and it’s best enjoyed warm for breakfast or as an afternoon snack.

Punjene Paprike

These are bell peppers filled with seasoned minced meat and rice in a rich tomato sauce. This homestyle dish is served in most kafanas or ready made in grocery stores and makes for another warm, cozy meal.

Meat Dishes

Grilled meat is big in Serbia. You can try ćevapi (grilled meat rolls), pljeskavica (Serbian burger), or local kebabs. These usually come with ajvar (red pepper relish) and rakija, the local fruit brandy. Check out any kafana for traditional food!

Suggested Niš Itinerary

Day 1

Morning

Start your day with fresh burek or gibanica from one of the local bakeries in the city center. Try it with a yogurt drink like the locals.

Afternoon

Take a walk through the city center to get oriented, making your way to the Niš Fortress. Explore the fortress grounds, walls, Roman ruins, and other structures, getting to know the city's long history. Find a bench and take a break in the park or have lunch at a restaurant along the walls.

Evening

Find a traditional kafana such as Kafana Meze for dinner to try Serbian specialties like sarma or grilled meats. Try a glass of rakija, the local fruit brandy.

Day 2

Morning

Have a slow start with coffee or tea and pastries at a local café or stroll along the river by the stone bridge leading to the fortress.

Afternoon

Visit the Skull Tower and Red Cross Concentration Camp museum to learn about the city’s difficult past. If you have more time or want more to do, you can check out the National Museum to see artifacts spanning the region's history, or go visit one of the historic parks.

Evening

Walk through Tinkers Alley to find a spot for dinner. Try pljeskavica or ćevapi at one of the restaurants along the cobblestone street.

If you have more time…

Visit Sićevo Gorge

For a city break, spend the day at the nearby Sićevo Gorge to see some beautiful nature. Here you can go hiking, paragliding, or climbing.

A couple friendly locals

A few tips for visiting Niš

To get around outside of the city, use the City Taxi app and have cash on hand.
If you visit in winter, be aware of the potential of bad quality air, which you can monitor here. Air pollution is a problem in parts of Europe, particularly the Balkans, where a lot of wood or coal is burned to keep warm. I visited in November/December, and was checking the air quality more often than the weather. If you are sensitive to air quality, avoid coming in winter until the heating situation improves. This greatly affected how much time I spent outdoors, but I did appreciate the slower time of year.
The busy season in Niš runs from June through August. For fewer crowds, visit in spring (April-May) or early autumn (September-October), and winter months (November-March) have the fewest tourists.
Smoking is common in many restaurants, so if you would like to avoid that, try to visit restaurants at slower times of the day or sit outside if possible.

To learn more about Niš, you can visit their official tourism website at VisitNis.

‍

How to Spend a Relaxing Weekend in York, England

How to Spend a Relaxing Weekend in Skopje, Macedonia

How to Spend a Relaxing Long Weekend in Rovaniemi, Finland